Hiroyasu Iwahashi1 | Yoshihito Kawashima1 | Hitoshi Masaki2,3 | Atsushi Taga4,5

1Research Center, Maruzen Pharmaceuticals Co., Ltd., Hiroshima, Japan | 2Laboratory of Photoaging Research, School of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Tokyo University of Technology, Tokyo, Japan | 3Research Institute for Human Health Science, Konan University, Hyougo, Japan | 4Pathological and Biomolecule Analyses Laboratory, Faculty of Pharmacy, Kindai University, Osaka, Japan | 5Antiaging Center, Kindai University, Osaka, Japan

Correspondence: Hiroyasu Iwahashi (该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。)

Received: 7 June 2024 | Revised: 7 January 2025 | Accepted: 7 January 2025

Funding: The authors received no specific funding for this work.

Keywords: Endo180 | Melissa officinalis | photoaging | type I collagen | wrinkle

Jean-Michel Amici1 | Guénaelle Le Dantec2 | Ann' Laure Demessant2 | Catherine Queille-Roussel3 | Magali Procacci Babled3 |

Anne Claire Cathelineau3 | Alix Danoy4 | Solene Trevisan4 | Merete Haedersdal5,6

This is an open access article under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits use, distribution and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.

1 Service de Dermatologie, Hôpital Saint André, Bordeaux, France | 2La Roche-Posay Laboratoire Dermatologique, Levallois-Perret, France | 3CPCAD, CHU Nice, Nice, France | 4Newtone Technologies–A QIMA Life Sciences Company, Lyon, France | 5Department of Dermatology, Copenhagen University Hospital, Copenhagen, Denmark | 6Department of Clinical Medicine, Faculty of Health and Medical Science, University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen, Denmark

Correspondence: Ann' Laure Demessant (该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。)

Received: 31 July 2024 | Accepted: 18 September 2024

Funding: This study was supported by La Roche-Posay Laboratoire Dermatologique, France.

Keywords: dermocosmetic | post-procedure | re-epithelization | superficial CO2 laser | vitamin B5

Alexandra D'Arcangelis1 | Sayantani Goswami Chatterjee1 | Isabel Diaz2 | Sabine Guehenneux3 | Jin Namkoong1 | Joanna Wu1

1 Skin Research and Innovation, Global Personal Care and Skin Health R&D, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Piscataway, New Jersey, USA

2 Dermal Clinical Research, ColgatePalmolive Company, Piscataway, New Jersey, USA

3 Laboratoires Filorga, Paris, France

Correspondence

Alexandra D'Arcangelis, Skin Research and Innovation, Global Personal Care and Skin Health R&D, ColgatePalmolive Company, 909 River Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08855, USA.

Email: alexandra_d_darcangelis@ colpal.com

Abstract

Objective: Periorbital skin ageing signs are multidimensional, highly visible and a concern for many. We evaluated the potential efficacy of an eye cream to diminish these signs.

Methods: Biological markers associated with ageing, barrier function and homeostasis were analysed in vitro to determine the effects of topically applied eye cream, compared to those of a placebo using human skin tissue models and/or explants. Collagen IV, elastin and bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4) expression was investigated by immunohistochemical labelling, while filaggrin, kallikrein 7 (KLK7) and HB-EGF were evaluated by RT-qPCR. IL-1α and melanin levels in darkly pigmented skin models were also quantified. The protective effect of the cream on glycation was assessed by a non-enzymatic assay. Finally, the benefits of twice-daily applications of the eye cream for 56days were instrumentally and clinically evaluated on 33 women.

Results: Only the eye cream, not the placebo, stimulated collagen IV and BMP4 protein expression, as well as increased elastin fibre length. It also led to higher HB-EGF, filaggrin and KLK7 mRNA levels. The placebo and the eye cream did not induce changes in IL-1α and melanin levels, but both reduced non-enzymatic glycation. When assessing the in  vivo effects of the cream, short-term results indicated skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin profilometry improvement within 15min. Instrumental evaluations of wrinkles showed a reduction after 7days, which was clinically perceivable after 28 or 56days. The eye-opening angle and eyelid sagging also improved after seven and 28days, respectively. Finally, dark circles became lighter within 7days (instrumental measurement) or 28days (clinical assessment).

Conclusion: The instrumental and clinical evaluations revealed that the eye cream reduced all periorbital ageing signs evaluated. Its effects are supported by the in vitro and ex vivo analyses of molecular markers.

KEYWORDS

cosmetic, hydration, periocular ageing, puffiness, wrinkles

Qianqian Wang1 Nihong Li2,3 Mingyu Wang2,3 Yuting Jin2,3 Rui Ye2,3 Le Du2,3 Fan Hu2,3

1 Department of Dermatology, Huashan Hospital, Fudan University, Shanghai, China

2 UNISKIN Research Institute on Skin Aging, Inertia Shanghai Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Shanghai, China

3 DermaHealth Shanghai Biotechnology Co., Ltd., Shanghai, China

Correspondence

Fan Hu,UNISKIN Research Institute on Skin Aging, Inertia Shanghai Biotechnology Co., Ltd., 19F, No.8 Huaihai Rd (M), Lansheng Building, Huangpu District, Shanghai.

Email: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Abstract

Background: The assessment of skin aging through skin measurements faces limitations, making perceived age evaluation a more valuable and direct tool for assessing skin aging. Given that the aging process markedly affects the appearance of the eye contour, characterizing the eye region could be beneficial for perceived age assessment. This study aimed to analyze age-correlated changes in the eye contour within the Chinese Han female population and to develop, validate, and apply a multiple linear regression model for predicting perceived age.

Materials and methods: A naïve panel of 107 Chinese women assessed the perceived ages of 212 Chinese Han women. Instrumental analysis evaluated periorbital parameters, including palpebral fissure width (PFW), palpebral fissure height (PFH), acclivity of palpebral fissure (AX), angle of inner canthal (AEN), and angle of outer canthal (AEX). These parameters were used to construct a multiple linear regression model for predicting the perceived ages of Chinese Han women. A combined treatment using Fotona 4D and an anti-aging eye cream, formulated with plant extracts, peptides, and antioxidants, was conducted to verify the cream’s anti-aging efficacy and safety. This eye cream was then tested in a large-scale clinical trial involving 101 participants. The prediction model was employed in this trial to assess the perceived ages of the women after an 8-week application of the eye cream.

Results: All parameters were observed to decrease with age. An intergroup comparison indicated that eyelid aging in Chinese Han women accelerates beyond the age of 50. Consequently, a linear regression model was constructed and validated, with the perceived age being calculated as 183.159 - 1.078 * AEN - 4.487 * PFW + 6.061 * PFH - 1.003 * AX - 0.328 * AEX. The anti-aging efficacy and safety of the eye cream were confirmed through combined treatment with Fotona 4D, showing improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, and dark circles under the eyes. In a large-scale clinical evaluation using this eye cream, a perceived age prediction model was applied, suggesting that 8 weeks of use made participants appear 2.25 years younger.

Conclusion: Our study developed and validated a multiple linear regression model to predict the perceived age of Chinese Han women. This model was successfully utilized in a large-scale clinical evaluation of anti-aging eye cream, revealing that 8 weeks of usage made participants appear 2.25 years younger. This method effectively bridges the gap between clinical research and consumer perceptions, explores the complex factors influencing perceived age, and aims to improve anti-aging formulations.

KEYWORDS

anti-aging, Chinese Han women, perceived, periorbital, prediction model, skin