Nahid Amini | Christina Osterlund | Jessen Curpen | Virginie Lafon-Kolb | Thibaud Richard | Lene Visdal-Johnsen Global Research and Development, Oriflame Cosmetics, Stockholm, Sweden
Correspondence: Nahid Amini (nahid.amini@oriflame.com)
Received: 19 September 2024 | Revised: 15 November 2024 | Accepted: 25 November 2024
Funding: The authors received no specific funding for this work.
Keywords: collagen | data mining | dermal density | Glycyrrhiza uralensis | phytoestrogen
ABSTRACT
Background: The dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) is a dynamic scaffold composed mainly of proteins, with collagen as the key structural component providing resilience and support to the skin. Post-menopause, declining estrogen levels lead to a significant reduction in skin health, notably a 30% decrease in collagen types I and III within 5 years.
Aim: To discover natural extracts that stimulate collagen production.
Methods: We utilized PathwayStudio to analyze protein–protein interactions and identify regulators of essential collagen types. Our study assessed Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract's ability to boost collagen production and enhance dermal density both in vitro and in vivo.
Results: PathwayStudio analysis highlighted phytoestrogens including glycyrrhizin, isoliquiritigenin, liquiritigenin, liquiritin, and glabrol, as potential candidates. Liquorice rhizome (G. uralensis), used in traditional Chinese medicine, is rich in phytoestrogens like liquiritigenin. The G. uralensis extract increased collagen I and III gene expression and pro-collagen I protein levels in human dermal fibroblasts and inhibited UVB and pollution-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP1) production. In an in vivo study, a topical formulation containing the extract significantly improved dermal density after 56days, measured by the DUB SkinScanner.
Conclusions: These findings suggest G. uralensis extract as a promising agent for enhancing collagen production and skin health, particularly in postmenopausal women. Further research is needed to explore its mechanisms and long-term effects.
Trung Quang Nguyen 1 , Thinh Van Pham 2 , Yusuf Andriana 3 and Minh Ngoc Truong 4,5,*
1 Institute of Environmental Science and Public Health, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Cau Giay, Hanoi 11353, Vietnam; nqtrung79@gmail.com
2 Faculty of Tourism and Culinary, Ho Chi Minh City University of Industry and Trade, Ho Chi Minh City 70000, Vietnam; thinhpv@huit.edu.vn
3 Research Center for Appropriate Technology, Indonesian Institute of Sciences, Subang 41213, Indonesia; yusufandriana@yahoo.com
4 Center for High Technology Research and Development, Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Cau Giay, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
5 Graduate University of Science and Technology, Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology, 18 Hoang Quoc Viet Street, Cau Giay, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
* Correspondence: minhtn689@gmail.com
Academic Editor: Shige Wang
Received: 9 December 2024
Revised: 23 December 2024
Accepted: 25 December 2024
Published: 3 January 2025
Citation: Nguyen, T.Q.; Van Pham, T.; Andriana, Y.; Truong, M.N. Cordyceps militaris-Derived Bioactive Gels:
Therapeutic and Anti-Aging Applications in Dermatology. Gels 2025, 11, 33. https://doi.org/ 10.3390/gels11010033
Copyright: © 2025 by the authors.
Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.
This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/).
Abstract: Cordyceps militaris is a medicinal mushroom widely utilized in traditional East Asian medicine, recognized for its diverse therapeutic properties. This review explores the potential of C. militaris-derived bioactive gels for applications in dermatology and skincare, with a particular focus on their therapeutic and anti-aging benefits. In response to the rising incidence of skin cancers and the growing demand for natural bioactive ingredients, C. militaris has emerged as a valuable source of functional compounds, including cordycepin, polysaccharides, and adenosine. These compounds exhibit multiple bioactivities, including apoptosis induction, cell cycle arrest, and anti-inflammatory effects, which have been shown to be particularly effective against melanoma and other skin cancers. Additionally, the antioxidant properties of C. militaris enhance skin resilience by scavenging reactive oxygen species, reducing oxidative stress, and promoting collagen synthesis, thereby addressing skin health and anti-aging requirements. The potential for incorporating C. militaris compounds into gel-based formulations for skincare is also ex amined, either as standalone bioactives or in combination with synergistic ingredients. Emphasis is placed on the necessity of clinical trials and standardization to establish the safety, efficacy, and reproducibility of such applications. By providing a safer alternative to synthetic agents, C. militaris-derived bioactive gels represent a promising advancement in dermatology and skincare.
Keywords: anti-aging; bioactive compounds; Cordyceps militaris; dermatology; skincare; therapeutic properties
原创: 张桂美 负压引流与创面修复
原创: 胡海涛 负压引流与创面修复
文章转载自公众号 普外时间 作者 胡海涛
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