Alexandra D'Arcangelis1 | Sayantani Goswami Chatterjee1 | Isabel Diaz2 | Sabine Guehenneux3 | Jin Namkoong1 | Joanna Wu1

1 Skin Research and Innovation, Global Personal Care and Skin Health R&D, Colgate-Palmolive Company, Piscataway, New Jersey, USA

2 Dermal Clinical Research, ColgatePalmolive Company, Piscataway, New Jersey, USA

3 Laboratoires Filorga, Paris, France

Correspondence

Alexandra D'Arcangelis, Skin Research and Innovation, Global Personal Care and Skin Health R&D, ColgatePalmolive Company, 909 River Rd, Piscataway, NJ 08855, USA.

Email: alexandra_d_darcangelis@ colpal.com

Abstract

Objective: Periorbital skin ageing signs are multidimensional, highly visible and a concern for many. We evaluated the potential efficacy of an eye cream to diminish these signs.

Methods: Biological markers associated with ageing, barrier function and homeostasis were analysed in vitro to determine the effects of topically applied eye cream, compared to those of a placebo using human skin tissue models and/or explants. Collagen IV, elastin and bone morphogenic protein 4 (BMP4) expression was investigated by immunohistochemical labelling, while filaggrin, kallikrein 7 (KLK7) and HB-EGF were evaluated by RT-qPCR. IL-1α and melanin levels in darkly pigmented skin models were also quantified. The protective effect of the cream on glycation was assessed by a non-enzymatic assay. Finally, the benefits of twice-daily applications of the eye cream for 56days were instrumentally and clinically evaluated on 33 women.

Results: Only the eye cream, not the placebo, stimulated collagen IV and BMP4 protein expression, as well as increased elastin fibre length. It also led to higher HB-EGF, filaggrin and KLK7 mRNA levels. The placebo and the eye cream did not induce changes in IL-1α and melanin levels, but both reduced non-enzymatic glycation. When assessing the in  vivo effects of the cream, short-term results indicated skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin profilometry improvement within 15min. Instrumental evaluations of wrinkles showed a reduction after 7days, which was clinically perceivable after 28 or 56days. The eye-opening angle and eyelid sagging also improved after seven and 28days, respectively. Finally, dark circles became lighter within 7days (instrumental measurement) or 28days (clinical assessment).

Conclusion: The instrumental and clinical evaluations revealed that the eye cream reduced all periorbital ageing signs evaluated. Its effects are supported by the in vitro and ex vivo analyses of molecular markers.

KEYWORDS

cosmetic, hydration, periocular ageing, puffiness, wrinkles