Andrada Pintea 1 , Andrei Manea 1,* , Cezara Pintea 1 , Robert-Alexandru Vlad 2 , Magdalena Bîrsan 3 , Paula Antonoaea 2 , Emöke Margit Rédai 2 and Adriana Ciurba 2

1 Medicine and Pharmacy Doctoral School, George Emil Palade University of Medicine, Pharmacy, Science, and Technology of Targu Mures, 540142 Targu Mures, Romania

2 Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology Department, Faculty of Pharmacy, George Emil Palade University of Medicine, Pharmacy, Science and Technology of Targu Mures, 540142 Targu Mures, Romania; 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。 (A.C.)

3 Department of Drug Industry and Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, “Grigore T. Popa” University of Medicine and Pharmacy, 700115 Iasi, Romania

* Correspondence: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Academic Editors: Maurice Am Van

Steensel and Jean-Luc Poyet

Received: 29 November 2024

Revised: 28 December 2024

Accepted: 8 January 2025

Published: 9 January 2025

Citation: Pintea, A.; Manea, A.; Pintea, C.; Vlad, R.-A.; Bîrsan, M.; Antonoaea, P.; Rédai, E.M.; Ciurba, A.

Peptides: Emerging Candidates for the Prevention and Treatment of Skin

Senescence: A Review. Biomolecules 2025, 15, 88. https://doi.org/ 10.3390/biom15010088

Copyright: © 2025 by the authors. Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland.

This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/4.0/).

Abstract: One class of cosmetic compounds that have raised interest of many experts is peptides. The search for ingredients with good biocompatibility and bioactivity has led to the use of peptides in cosmetic products. Peptides are novel active ingredients that improve collagen synthesis, enhance skin cell proliferation, or decrease inflammation. Based on their mechanism of action, they can be classified into signal peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides, and enzyme inhibitor peptides. This review focuses on the main types of peptides and their application in the cosmetic field, underlining their main limitations. One of the most significant drawbacks of cosmetic peptides is their poor permeability through membranes, which limits their delivery and effectiveness. As a result, this review follows the methods used for improving permeability through the stratum corneum. Increasing peptide bioavailability and stability for enhanced delivery to the desired site of action and visible effects have become central points for the latest research due to their promising features. For this purpose, several methods have been identified and described. Physical techniques include thermal ablation (radiofrequency and laser), electrical methods (electroporation, iontophoresis), mechanical approach (microneedles), and ultrasounds. As an alternative, innovative formulations have been developed in nanosystems such as liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, nanoemulsions, and other nanomaterials to reduce skin irritation and improve product effectiveness. The purpose of this review is to provide the latest information regarding these noteworthy molecules and the reasoning behind their use in cosmetic formulations.

Keywords: cosmetic peptides; anti-aging products; permeability; nano-systems

Shanshan Zang PhD | Juanjuan Chen MS | Cyril Chevalier MS | Ji Zhang MS | Shumei Li MS | Hequn Wang PhD | Jing Li MS | Yangdong Chen MS | Hongling Xu MS | Le Sheng MS | Zhiming Zhang MS | Jie Qiu PhD

L' Oreal (China) Research and Innovation Center, Shanghai, China

Correspondence

Jie Qiu, L' Oreal (China) Research and Innovation Center, Shanghai, China.

Email: 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Abstract

Objective: To investigate the repairing and anti-wrinkle efficacy of the facial cream enriched with C-xyloside, aiming at comprehensively evaluating its skin anti- aging effect and clarify its potential mechanism of action.

Methods: The repairing efficacy was studied on 3D epidermis skin model and the antiaging efficacy was studied on ex-vivo human skin. Two clinical studies were conducted with Chinese females. In the first study, 49 subjects aged between 30 and 50 with wrinkle concerns were recruited and instructed to apply the investigational cream containing C-xyloside for 8 weeks. Wrinkles attributes were assessed by dermatologist. Instrumental measurements on skin hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin elasticity were also conducted. In the second study, 30 subjects aged between 25 and 60 with self-declared sensitive skin and facial redness were recruited and instructed to apply the cream for 4 weeks. Biomarker analysis of the stratum corneum was conducted through facial tape strips.

Results: The cream improved the histomorphology of the 3D epidermis skin model after SLS stimulation, and significantly increase the expression of LOR and FLG. On human skin, the cream improved the histopathology induced by UV, and significantly increased the protein content of COL I and COL III, collagen density and the number of Ki-67 positive cell of skin compared with model group (n= 3, p< 0.01). The results from the first clinical study demonstrate a significant increased the skin hydration and elasticity by 21.90%, 13.08% (R2) and 12.30% (R5), respectively (n= 49, p< 0.05), and the TEWL values decreased by 33.94% (n= 49, p< 0.05), after 8 weeks application of the cream. In addition, the scores for nasolabial folds, glabellar wrinkle, underneath eye wrinkles, crow's feet wrinkle and forehead wrinkle in the volunteers exhibited a significant reduction of 34.02%, 43.34%, 50.03%, 33.64% and 55.81% respectively (n= 49, p< 0.05). The (rCE)/(fCE) ratio of volunteers based on tape stripping significant increased after using the sample cream (n= 30, p< 0.05).

Conclusion: The cream containing C-xyloside showed improvement of skin wrinkles and enhancement of skin barrier function. These efficacies may be attributed to the fact that the sample cream can increase the expression of skin barrier related proteins LOR and FLG, promote the maturation of cornified envelope, enhance collagen I and III protein expression and stimulate skin cell proliferation, to provide sufficient evidence supporting its antiaging efficacy of skin.

KEYWORDS

anti-wrinkle/repairing/antiaging, C-xyloside, in vitro, skin barrier, tape stripping

Robert Chmielewski1–3 , Aleksandra Lesiak4,5

1 Prime Clinic, Warsaw, Poland;

2 Positive Pro-Aging Foundation, Warsaw, Poland;

3 URGO Aesthetics Department, URGO, Warsaw, Poland;

4 Dermoklinika Medical Center, Lodz, Poland; 5 Department of Dermatology, Pediatric Dermatology and Oncology, Laboratory of Autoinflammatory, Genetic and Rare Skin Disorders, Medical University of Lodz, Lodz, Poland Correspondence: Aleksandra Lesiak, Department of Dermatology, Pediatric Dermatology and Oncology, Laboratory of Autoinflammatory, Genetic and Rare Skin Disorders, Medical University of Lodz, 16 Pankiewicza Street, Lodz, Poland, 91-738, Email 该Email地址已收到反垃圾邮件插件保护。要显示它您需要在浏览器中启用JavaScript。

Abstract: This comprehensive review explores the pivotal roles of glycation and oxidative stress in the aging process of the skin, their targeted therapeutic applications in aesthetic and regenerative medicine, as well as anti-aging interventions. Glycation, a biochemical process involving the non-enzymatic attachment of sugars to proteins, lipids, or nucleic acids, culminates in the formation of Advanced Glycation End products (AGEs). These AGEs are significant contributors to aging and various chronic ailments, triggering oxidative stress and inflammatory pathways, thereby manifesting as wrinkles, diminished skin elasticity, and other age-related dermal alterations. A central focus of this review is the synergistic interplay between Hyaluronic Acid (HA) and Trehalose in combating these aging mechanisms. HA, renowned for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties, assumes a pivotal role in modulating Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) levels and safeguarding against oxidative damage. Concurrently, trehalose targetsglycation and oxidative stress, exhibiting promising outcomes in augmenting skin health, providing Ultraviolet B (UVB) photoprotection, and manifesting notable anti-photoaging effects. The combined administration of HA and trehalose not only addresses existing skin damage but also confers preventive and reparative benefits, particularly in stabilizing HA and mitigating glycation-induced stress. Their synergistic action significantly enhances skin quality and mitigates inflammation. The implications of these findings are profound for the future of anti-aging therapeutics in aesthetic medicine, suggesting that the integration of HA and trehalose holds promise for revolutionary advancements in preserving skin vitality and health. Moreover this paper underscores the imperative for continued research into the combined efficacy of these compounds, advocating for innovative therapeutic modalities in aesthetic medicine and enhanced strategies for combating aging, glycation, and oxidative stress.

Keywords: hyaluronic acid, trehalose, skin aging, glycation, oxidative stress, anti-aging therapies

Juewon Kim1,

*, Hyeryung Kim2 , Woo-Young Seo3 , Eunji Lee3 and Donghyun Cho4

1 Department of Physiology, Konkuk University College of Medicine, Chungju 27478,

2 GENINUS Inc., Seoul 05836,

3 ABIOTECH Co., Ltd., Suwon 16675,

4 HEM pharma, Suwon 16229, Republic of Korea

Abstract

Longevity genes and senescence-related signaling proteins are crucial targets in aging research, which aims to enhance the healthy period and quality of life. Identifying these target proteins remains challenging because of the need for precise categorization and validation methods. Our multifaceted approach combined bioinformatics with transcriptomic data to identify collagen as a key element associated with the lifespan of the model organism, Caenorhabditis elegans. By analyzing transcriptomic data from long-lived mutants that involved mechanisms such as antioxidation, dietary restriction, and genetic background, we identified collagen as a common longevity-associated gene. We validated these findings by confirming that collagen peptides positively affect lifespan, thereby strengthening the validity of the target. Further verification through healthspan factors in C. elegans and functional assays in skin fibroblasts provided additional evidence of the role of collagen in organismal aging. Specifically, our study revealed that collagen type VII is a significant target protein for mitigating age-related decline. By validating these findings across different aging models and cell-based studies, we present compelling evidence for the anti-aging effects of collagen type VII, highlighting its potential as a target for promoting healthy aging. This study proposes that collagen not only serves as an indicative marker of organismal longevity across various senescence-related signaling pathways, but also offers a mechanistic understanding of skin degeneration. Consequently, collagen is an effective target for interventions aimed at mitigating skin aging. This study underscores the potential of collagen type VII (bonding collagen T7) as a therapeutic target for enhancing skin health and overall longevity.

Key Words: Collagen VII, Healthspan, C. elegans, Skin aging, Bonding collagen

https://doi.org/10.4062/biomolther.2024.127

This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/) which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Received Aug 1, 2024 Revised Sep 10, 2024 Accepted Sep 30, 2024

Published Online Oct 21, 2024

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